NAVIGATING THE RING OF KERRY
The Ring of Kerry is more than just a road; it is, in many ways, the essence of Ireland condensed into a 179-kilometer (111-mile) loop of ever-changing landscapes, ancient ruins, pastel villages, windswept beaches, mystical stone circles that invite visitors to delve into centuries of rich history & folklore, and of course, legendary warm Irish hospitality. Let us help you while you are driving the Ring of Kerry.
Should I Travel the Ring Clockwise or Counterclockwise?
Okay, here it is….. We will separate fact from fiction, explore the advantages and disadvantages of traveling each way, debunk any lingering myths, and guide you in uncovering the best approach for your ideal exploration of this iconic, unforgettable loop. First, you must understand the route…..
This sweeping loop around the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, known as The Ring of Kerry, forms a broad loop beginning and ending in the vibrant town of Killarney, passing through charming towns and villages such as Killorglin, Glenbeigh, Cahersiveen, Waterville, Sneem, Kenmare, and back to Killarney via Moll’s Gap and Ladies View.
A key aspect of driving the Ring of Kerry concerns the direction of travel, particularly due to the presence of large tour buses. Traditionally, and by a general rule for minimizing congestion, organized tour buses operate the loop in a counter-clockwise direction. This means they typically depart Killarney and head west towards Killorglin and Glenbeigh, continuing along the coastal route before completing the loop back through Kenmare.
For independent travelers driving their own vehicles, however, there is complete flexibility to choose either a clockwise or counter-clockwise route, allowing for a more personalized experience.
Driving Counterclockwise
Tour Buses Go Counterclockwise: The narrowness of some stretches—especially between Cahersiveen and Sneem—means that buses traveling in opposite directions would have trouble passing. To prevent traffic jams, all major tour companies agreed long ago to travel in the same direction: counterclockwise.
Advantages of Going Counterclockwise: While driving the Ring of Kerry, you’re less likely to meet oncoming buses on tight roads, and you may avoid having to reverse into hedges or driveways to make room. If you leave early in the morning, you can stay ahead of the bus convoy and experience the stops with fewer crowds.
Disadvantages of going Counterclockwise: If you leave after the bus tours start (usually around 9–10 a.m.), you may find yourself stuck behind a slow-moving coach, especially in the first half of the day. Passing opportunities are rare in many areas, so patience is required.
Driving Clockwise
Less commonly chosen, but increasingly popular among independent travelers, is the clockwise route—heading first from Killarney towards Kenmare and Sneem, then along the coast to Waterville and onwards.
Advantages of driving clockwise: While driving the Ring of Kerry, you’ll be traveling against the flow of tour buses, which means you’re less likely to be behind them. Instead, you may occasionally meet them coming the other way on narrower roads, but you’ll have the advantage of being in a smaller, more maneuverable vehicle. This gives you more flexibility in tight spots and lets you set your own pace.
Spectacular Views: Some travelers say the coastal views are more dramatic when driving clockwise, especially between Sneem and Cahersiveen. Your car will be on the outside lane, closer to the scenery, making it easier to stop for photos at some viewpoints (always pull over safely!).
Sunlight and Timing: Depending on the time of day and weather, driving clockwise can mean better lighting for photos along certain stretches, particularly in the afternoon as you travel north along the coast.
Less Congestion at Major Stops: Many of the classic photo stops and villages will be emptier than if you’re following the main bus crowd, giving you a more tranquil experience—especially at places like Ladies View and Moll’s Gap late in the day.
TO SUM IT UP –
GOING Counterclockwise:
- You might end up behind tour buses if you don’t leave early.
- At the busiest stops, expect crowds—especially late morning and lunchtime.
- Your car will often be on the inside lane, farther from the coastal views when pulling over for photos.
GOING Clockwise:
- You’ll occasionally need to pull over to let tour buses pass on narrower stretches (drive cautiously and yield as needed).
- Some villages and attractions may be quieter, meaning less atmosphere at local pubs or markets if you crave bustle.
Other Factors to Consider
Timing and Season
If you’re visiting in the off-season (October through March), bus traffic is drastically reduced, making either direction a relaxed choice. In high summer, consider leaving early or later in the day to beat the tour crowds, regardless of direction.
Your Itinerary and Interests
Are you a photographer looking for golden hour light on the coast? Are there specific attractions you want to visit at a certain time of day? Plot your preferred stops and consider how the sun and traffic will affect your experience.
Comfort with Irish Roads
If you’re an anxious driver, unused to left-hand driving or narrow winding roads, going counterclockwise with the buses may feel less stressful, as you’ll encounter fewer oncoming coaches on single-lane stretches. More confident drivers may relish the flexibility of the clockwise approach.
Hidden Gems and Detours On The Ring Of Kerry
Don’t forget that the Skellig Ring—a smaller, less-traveled loop off the main Ring—offers jaw-dropping coastal views and the charming village of Portmagee, gateway to Skellig Michael. This detour is easier to access by going counterclockwise but is well worth the effort whichever direction you choose.
Local Wisdom: What Do the Locals Say?
Locals, unsurprisingly, have strong and varied opinions. Some recommend following the buses for simplicity; others suggest driving clockwise for the freedom and views.
A common theme? Start early, take your time, and don’t let the pressure of traffic—or the chase for the perfect photo—ruin your day. The magic of the Ring lies as much in chance encounters and spontaneous stops as in the route itself.
Which Direction Should You Choose?
Ultimately, there’s no single “correct” way to experience the Ring of Kerry. The direction you choose depends on your preferences, driving confidence, and what you value most in your journey. If avoiding oncoming buses and following a well-trodden path sounds appealing, go counterclockwise.
If you want more open roads, unique viewpoints, and a touch of independence, try clockwise.
But more important than your direction is your sense of adventure. Take the detours, linger at the viewpoints, chat with locals, and let the Ring of Kerry reveal its wonders to you at its own pace.
Whichever route you choose, you will gather memories that will last a lifetime.
In essence, the Ring of Kerry condenses the very soul of Ireland into one unforgettable loop, making it a truly immersive and quintessential Irish experience
Safe travels and may the road rise to meet you!
From Your Friends at Benny’s Ireland Vacations.
